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Atek LED

Atek LED makes LED lighting for spas and hot tubs, including multi-LED spa light bulbs and LED lights with controllers. At PoolParthub.com you will find replacement slave spa light bulbs and 12V LED lights with controller, so you can bring your spa lighting back to life. The right part lets you repair instead of replace.

Atek LED spa and pool lighting

Lighting is one of the few parts of a spa or pool that is noticed every single evening, and one of the first to be replaced when it stops working. Here we list Atek LED lamps and lighting kits for low-voltage installations, including replacement bulbs for existing niches and complete units supplied with a controller. The range is small and specific, so identifying the correct item usually comes down to two questions: is the fitting a primary light or a slave, and what supply voltage does the existing installation use?

Què cobreix el rang

Two items make up the current selection, and they answer different needs. Together they cover both the repair of an existing lighting circuit and the installation of a self-contained LED light with its own control.

  • 6-LED Primary Light Slave Spa Light Bulb – 900002-S: a replacement lamp intended to sit in a spa light housing as a slave unit, following the primary light in the circuit rather than being controlled independently.
  • Illuminex LED Light with Controller, 12V – 900004: a 12V LED light supplied together with its controller, for installations where the light and its control are replaced or fitted as one.

Because both products are referred to by part number as well as description, quoting 900002-S or 900004 when comparing against existing documentation is the quickest way to avoid ordering the wrong variant.

Primary and slave lights explained

Many spa lighting circuits are built around one primary light and one or more slave lights. The primary unit receives the switching or control signal and the slave units follow it, so that every lamp in the shell behaves the same way at the same moment. The suffix on a part number often reflects this role, and the S in 900002-S indicates a slave lamp.

The practical consequence is simple: a slave lamp cannot do the job of a primary lamp, and fitting the wrong one usually results in lights that do not respond, respond out of sequence, or do not illuminate at all. Before ordering, check how many lights the spa has and which of them carries the control connection. If the original lamp is still in place, the printed part number on its body or base is the most reliable reference. Photographing the wiring before disconnecting anything makes reassembly considerably easier.

Low-voltage supply and installation notes

Spa and pool lighting of this type runs at low voltage, with 12V being the common standard for compact LED units. The supply comes from a transformer or from the spa pack itself, and the light must match that supply. Fitting a 12V lamp to a circuit designed for another voltage will either shorten its life or prevent it from working.

  • Voltage: confirm the output marked on the transformer or control pack before selecting a lamp.
  • Habitatge: measure the diameter of the existing niche or lens aperture and note how the lamp is retained — threaded, clipped or held by a retaining ring.
  • Seals: inspect the lens gasket while the unit is out. A flattened, hardened or cracked seal is the usual route for water into a dry niche.
  • Longitud del cable: check the length of the existing tail and the position of the connector, since a short lead can make an otherwise correct lamp impractical to fit.
  • Control: decide whether a controller is already present and working, or whether a light-and-controller combination such as 900004 is the more sensible replacement.

Work on the lighting circuit should only be carried out with the power isolated, and any part of the installation that involves mains wiring is a job for a qualified electrician.

Common reasons for replacement

LED lamps fail less often than the incandescent bulbs they replaced, but they are not immune. Water ingress past a tired lens seal, corrosion at the connector, physical damage during a shell clean, and failure of the controller rather than the lamp itself all turn up regularly. A useful first test is to establish whether every light in the circuit has gone dark or only one: a single dead lamp points to the lamp or its connection, while the loss of all of them more often points to the supply, the controller or the primary unit.

Atek LED at PoolParthub.com

Here you will find the Atek LED items listed above, identified by their original part numbers so that they can be matched directly against an existing lamp, an exploded view or a service manual. Both the slave lamp and the light-and-controller kit are listed separately rather than bundled, so only the part that has actually failed needs to be ordered.

Lighting parts are stocked alongside lens gaskets, low-voltage transformers and spa control components from other manufacturers, which makes it straightforward to order a lamp and the small sealing parts that should be renewed at the same time in one go. If the markings on an old lamp are no longer legible, send details of the spa or pool, the voltage of the supply and the number of lights in the circuit, and the range can be checked against them.